Finally, over thudding house, a very varied selection of models strut out in a mix of avant-garde workwear and tailoring: hi-vis details paired with slouchy jackets roomy sportswear clashing with lacy camisoles elegant swishing coats topped off with baseball caps and pearls. The locale is pretty standard for her, considering she has also shown in both her daughter’s primary school and in an old sauna. Electric and eccentric, heavy on community and diversity but also undeniably sexy and louche: this is the London-born designer in a nutshell. We are already deep in the world of Martine Rose. The artist Alvaro Barrington, sitting on one faded banquette, says that it all reminds him of church gatherings where he grew up in Brooklyn. The essentials of the place haven’t changed in decades – old pub stools, discernibly sticky floors – but multicoloured lights dot the ceilings, a walkway has been carved out among the tables, and an LED ticker tape at the far end of the room spells out in a vivid sex-club red the reason we’re here: SS24 MARTINE ROSE. We’ll send you a myFT Daily Digest email rounding up the latest Menswear news every morning.Ī sweltering summer evening in London – one of the few the capital will see this year – and the fashion industry is cramming into a small church community centre in Highgate.
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